The living room of the village head's home is really warm like spring. The temperature emanating from the furnace is everywhere in the room. From time to time, Dorje squats by the furnace and throws a few pieces of wood or cow dung into the furnace. The red fire light constantly jumps out of the small door of the furnace, which makes me feel a great sense of security
The living room area of the Dorje family is not large, but the size of the stove is very large. The rectangular stove occupies the center of the living room, covering nearly 30% of the area. Several simple furniture are arranged around the stove, including two walls with Tibetan sofas, one wall with cupboards, and one wall with water tanks and sundries. Seven or eight of us sat around the stove, cramming the room to the brim. The per capita area was too small
There are one or two vegetables on the wide stove, all of which are tomatoes and green peppers with fried potatoes and cabbage. It's a little shabby in the city, but it's a bit luxurious here! Everyone in the living room is holding a bowl of noodles in their hands. They are busy eating and drinking. The only thing is that the elder brother is eating yak meat and drinking wine. He looks very happy when his eyes are blurred
The elder brother looks like he is 50 or 60 years old, but he is a fashion brand. He wears a Nike cap, Converse canvas shoes, the latest champion down jacket, a Beijing accent, and a cynical expression
"I've been a regular here. I take one or two months every year to live in Dorje's house. It's been several years. I like the Tibetan life here. It's very simple..."
Elder brother sips a sip of wine. Why don't you put your mouth down and stretch out your neck to ask everyone: "have you seen anyone here Don't you think people's food is bad? "
Everyone shook his head, and the elder brother spat angrily: "the food here is not delicious. Don't come here if it's delicious! Do you know that there is no food here? Do you know how difficult it is to bring vegetables here? Do you know whether the local people carry water into their homes from the river at the foot of the mountain? "
Elder brother has treated himself as a native and taught every one of us. Elder brother despises such people. We are the same. The delicate tourists are not unworthy of coming here, but please don't come here to eat the unnecessary "bitterness"
The elder brother sips the white wine again, eyes close slightly, hands hold in front of the chest, as if thinking about something
"So, I want to make a documentary film. I've been doing this for several years. I've been running around the Tibetan area, gathering wind all the time..."
I'm serious. Naturally, we respect my brother. Please exchange wechat to learn from each other
"The documentary in my heart is about to shoot the most primitive life of the Tibetans and restore the most real of them. If I want to make this documentary well, I must contact them more and learn more..."
"So, I often look for places where people are rare..."
"Have you ever been to Ali?" My brother suddenly turned to me.
I quickly replied, "yes, in winter!"
The elder brother smiled and said, "few people come to Tibet in winter, let alone Ali..."
I said, "I think Ali in winter is the most beautiful..."
"Is that right? Ha ha... It seems that you are the one who can play! " Brother gave me a look of appreciation.
My brother's praise made me a little proud. I went on to say, "we have climbed longala mountain in the snow and saw two small lakes in the mountain depression, just like ice tears. In addition, I have seen the Zada tulin in the snow, really like fairyland..."
"I'd like to recommend you another place, Pulan County near Zada, where there is a sacred mountain called namunani. I don't know if you've heard of it..." The elder brother said, throwing a basin.
"Haven't heard of..." I replied, but my eyes were attracted by the basin
There is a dagger in the basin. There is a piece of meat like food. It is as thick as a small arm.
I asked, "what is this?"
"Blood intestines, the blood intestines of Tibetans, infused with yak blood..." The elder brother explained and motioned for me to taste.
The skin of this section of blood intestines and the cross-section cut by the knife are all in dark color. It's dark red. It's really not interesting for people to eat. I shake my head to say it's ok
The elder brother pulled the basin back, reached out and picked up the dagger, held the bloody intestines with the thumb and index finger of the other hand, skillfully cut a piece of bloody intestines down, then pinched the bloody intestines and put it on the tongue, like Zhou Runfa eating chocolate, put it into his mouth and chewed it up, when the bloody intestines become crushed, the hand that put down the dagger sent the white wine to his mouth
"Dorje... I'm the only one who dares to eat this Ha ha ha... That's good. Then it's all mine... " He turned his head and shouted at Dorje. Dorje, who was not good at words, would only smile and nod in response.
Dorje is an honest Kangba man. He is a little man with dark skin. In contrast, Dorje's wife is much taller, and her dark face is always smiling. After dinner, she enthusiastically handed the buttered tea to everyone, nodded to everyone: "tea, tea..."
I asked her where the glaciers were around her? She stood up, pointed to the left, pointed to the right, pointed to behind me, faltered for a long time, I didn't understand all
Standing aside, Dorje quickly explained, "she can't speak Chinese, can't understand, can't speak well..."
Dorje said and looked at the elder brother sitting opposite. "Let me tell you!" Elder brother took over the conversation. Dorje laughed.
The elder brother said: "do you remember the glacier on the side of the road when you enter the village? It's Yalong glacier. That's to her right and Dongga glacier on the left. It's about five or six kilometers since you hiked. There are only two glaciers worth seeing here..."
I asked the elder brother, "isn't there six glaciers here? Cattle and horses, ruojiao, Meixi and so on... "
"You have to say that there are at least dozens of glaciers here, but they are all retreating glaciers and undeveloped glaciers, which have little ornamental value..." The elder brother paused, took a sip of wine and said, "the Dongga now belongs to the retreating glaciers. When you go to the bottom of the glaciers, you can see..."
On the way to the village, I remember the biggest ice hanging on the top of the mountain. It is shining in the sun. I think it should be Dongga glacier. From a distance, I can feel the ice cap on the top of the mountain is huge. If it's not because it's standing at its feet, I can't believe that the volume of the glacier now only accounts for a fraction of its heyday
Dongga glacier is located on a wide pasture. There are many snow mountains around the pasture. Looking up, every two peaks are covered with ice. The huge Dongga glacier has retreated to the mountainside, but the valley twisted out by the peak of the glacier is still visible. The huge mountain beside the glacier has been cut off by a quarter, forming a "big mouth" that swallows the heaven and the earth, but more like a piece of ice The belly opened by the dagger is as shocked as the earthquake fault zone.
There is a strong wind constantly blowing out from the glacier valley mouth, which is bone piercing and cold. I know that you can touch Dongga glacier by climbing several kilometers along the top of the valley wall. But high altitude, low temperature and strong wind are all the extreme conditions that restrict us. I really don't want to freeze to death here. Think or forget
After giving up the glacier, we wandered in the pastures and found a small river flowing by. Looking around, the end of the river was between the mountains that were getting closer. Above the mountains, a smooth "little white mountain" was shining. I had a sense of familiar before my eyes. Driven by curiosity, we went upstream along the river. The mellow shape made me want to see the whole picture
In winter, the bed of the river forms ice, which is as solid as land. I and violet step into it carefully. The deep and tortuous River Valley, one bend after another, my heart is always looking forward to the "little white mountain" behind the next bend. I don't know how many bends I have passed for a long time
The deeper I went, the more hairy I felt. I felt that the ice under my feet was becoming thinner and thicker, and the valley was becoming narrower, with 90 ° cliffs on both sides. The blue sky is up, but the sun is out of sight. Zi and I are like frogs at the bottom of the well. We are afraid that there is some danger on the cliff that we can't guard against. The surrounding environment brings us a great sense of psychological oppression
Maybe it is "opportunities and challenges coexist, hope and difficulties coexist", and the surprises on the way have not failed us.
In the valley, the still lively stream falls over the cliff, just like a piece of white silk hanging from the top of the cliff, forming a stunning winter waterfall landscape, which makes us most impressive. The ice layer is blue-green, and the shape is like "frozen throne"
After the "throne", a few turns were made. Suddenly, ice layer with a thickness of more than ten meters appeared in the valley. The ice ridge was wide, like the belly of a big fish. Ice cracks were all over it, and the width and depth of half a meter could not be seen at the bottom. We seem to be in a magical world of ice, with danger and beauty, timid but curious
At the end of the ice layer, the ice cover with a thickness of several centimeters on the surface of the river bed collapsed on the river bed because there was not enough river water to support it, forming a general spectacle of breaking the heaven and earth
Purple and I are excited to die, but we are also scared to die. Even if we go to a more beautiful scenery, we dare not take another step. Our hands are suitable. Thanks to the river god for giving us enough opportunities with the beautiful scenery, we are satisfied
Back to Dorje's house, I went to show off everything I saw and heard in the river valley to my elder brother, and at last I asked him about the "little white mountain" which is "near at present but far away in the sky"!
The elder brother is still sitting by the fire as usual, holding up his glass and sipping it, saying: "don't look at" little white mountain "as if it's very close to you. In fact, it's far away. You may not be able to walk for another hour or two!"
I nodded modestly, thinking that "contented people are always happy" is a wise saying. The elder brother then said: "as expected, where" little white mountain "should be the renlongba glacier in Chayu..."
I remember meeting the fork road leading to Chayu before entering the ancient village, but I still had to drive for at least 20 kilometers. I didn't expect that Chayu was so close to the ancient village
My brother asked me, "Chayu, have you ever been there? Have you heard of "bingchacha"
I shook my head and replied with a smile, "I just heard of" bingchacha ". I heard that the mountain road there is very dangerous and has not passed yet! I didn't expect that Chayu was one of the "C Chacha"... "
The elder brother then said: "if you want to see the glacier close, you have to go to renlongba! Renlongba is a glacier that is allowed to climb. It is of good physical strength. It has been dry to the top of the mountain. Then I will look back. To be honest, it is absolutely spectacular... "
"Is that right? Uh... This time it's over Let's leave it to "bingchacha" later Let's go back to ancient times this time... " Listen to my brother, I'm a little eager to
The elder brother nodded and said, "well, give yourself a chance to come back next time Ha ha... "
However, Yalong glacier can also be seen from the top of the mountain The elder brother added.
"Is that right? How can I get there? " I suddenly got a light and grabbed my brother's hand to ask.
"In winter, there is a lot of snow on the mountain. I don't know if I can go there, but you don't have to worry. I'll tell you now that you can't go there either..." After that, my brother began to sip the wine again.
Looking at my elder brother's posturing, I complained: "elder brother, you are trying to please me..."
"Alas... Do you remember a place called Daba village on the way? If you want to go to the glacier, you have to walk from Daba village. There are many good places near the ancient times. When you have visited enough, you can go out of the village... "
"Daba village is at least seven or eight kilometers away. It's not worth going back now..."
"And ah, there's Dorje's brother living in Daba village. Then let Dorje find someone to take you on a motorcycle How nice... "
I didn't expect my brother to be so considerate. I was embarrassed and said with a smile, "it's so Then I misunderstood you Hey, hey, hey
"Remember the mountain behind us?" The elder brother said and pointed.
I was confused and asked the elder brother, "er Is that the direction that Dorje's wife points to? "
"Well, yes! There are several lakes in chains behind the mountain. You can go there first! " I'm glad to say thank you.
I asked my brother, "what's wrong with that?"
The elder brother waved, "it should be the mistake of snow Anyway, it's beautiful. It's worth seeing Hahahaha... "
Sure enough, there are three connected lakes in the mountain. Before departure, I have checked them completely on the mobile phone map. The three lakes are Xiong qiancuo, Ze Dongcuo and Xue nacuo. The water of these three lakes comes from the melting water of glaciers, giving people a clear, transparent, cool and cool feeling
Standing on the top of the lake, the surface of xionggangcuo lake is covered with a layer of thin ice, which looks like a bat. The lake water under the thin ice is dark blue, which spreads to the lake side, and then gradually becomes light blue, light green, light yellow and light purple. It's beautiful
The most peculiar thing is that Dongcuo is completely covered by thin ice. Through the ice layer, it also reflects magnificent gradual colors like Xiong Dongcuo, but the other fault just one bridge away from zedongcuo is like boiling, like thousands of pearls scattered in the lake, reflecting dazzling light
At first, I thought this was the mistake of snow. I found that it wasn't until I searched the map carefully. Because the shape marked on the map didn't match it at all, so although there was a bridge between them, it also belonged to Zedong mistake. When I watched the last mistake of snow, I needed to climb another mountain
While appreciating the beautiful scenery, I have always doubted how this kind of inaccessible place can build bridges. Although there are only a few pieces of wood on the stone, it seems very simple, but it can be seen that the transportation facilities are still in normal use.
At this time, there was a tinkling sound in the valley. From far to near, the sound became louder and louder. A group of yaks slowly emerged from the forest. Each cow carried two bundles of wood on its back. After careful counting, there were more than thirty or forty yaks. There were several figures behind the yak team. They should be the owners of the yak team
"Zaxidele..." I waved and shouted.
"Zaxidele..." The cattle driver waved.
"What are you doing?" I asked
It turns out that they all come to cut wood. All the heat sources of life in the village are wood cut from the deep mountains. At this point, the question of the bridge is solved
I asked the cowherd, "is the road in the mountain easy..."
The cowherd replied, "no, it's snowy..."
I look at violet, and look at the distance, only the last lake, in the end is not to go! I asked ah Zi to come up with an idea. Ah Zi said, "don't go. I think it's all the same..."
I nodded in agreement and went back
Later, people who have heard that it's not extreme outdoor sports that really don't need to go. The snow is higher and thicker. If you don't go camping, it's better to stop at Bear's hard mistake! Xuenacuo is too close to the glacier. Generally, the time to get there is at noon. When the sun is high, a large amount of glacial melt water pours into the lake, which will make the lake muddy. It's not worth watching
When I went back to Dorje's house, I saw two new people in the living room. The elder brother introduced me: "these two are Dorje's nephews, children of Dorje's brother's house. They live in Daba village, just let them take you to the Glacier..."
"Is that right? Hahahaha... " As soon as I heard this, I couldn't close my mouth happily, so I hurried forward to shake hands and say hello.
The elder brother asked the two younger brothers, "how are you? What's the situation on the mountain? Can you go up? "
The two boys are not sure, but according to their past experience, they speculate: "this winter has not been up! There is a lot of snow on the mountain, but it should be able to go up... "
I was so excited that I quickly said, "is that right? That's easy to do. Tomorrow should be a good day. Shall we go there tomorrow? "
The two boys looked at each other and said, "OK, you can..."
On the second day, I and violet left the ancient village on the motorcycles of two younger brothers. Before leaving, I thanked elder brother for his continuous instructions. Elder brother went out to see me off. I feel like I've been together for a few days
On the mountain, the two brothers adjusted their wheels desperately. Although they were old riders in the mountains, they still struggled to walk with me and violet in the snow. I didn't think that since I could walk on a motorcycle on the way up the mountain, it was pretty good
The mountain is high and steep, and only one person can pass through the narrow part of Panshan road. There are thorns on the side of the road. My brother reminds us to protect our face from time to time. The road is full of fist sized stones. In order to avoid the stones, we sometimes have to drive close to the side of the road. But the side of the road is a cliff. Four people are nervous and nervous
When the altitude rises a little, the white light in the mountain depression becomes more bright and clear. Before we reach the top of the mountain, we are shocked to see the giant ice and snow dragon in the mountain depression occasionally. When the altitude rises a meter, the degree of shock is refreshed. Adrenaline is constantly secreted. From head to toe, we are excited to have goose bumps. We are all slightly electrified
Finally, we arrived at the top of the mountain pasture. The beautiful scenery in front of us was so exciting that we couldn't care about our tired limbs. We looked left and right, up and down, and felt that we needed to grow a few more eyes
Yalong glacier stretches from the main peak of Gangri Gabu mountain, 6606 meters above sea level, to gongcuo, more than 4000 meters above sea level, about 12 kilometers long, and the scene is spectacular. There are countless ice cracks, large and small, scattered in the glacier, as if they were brushed by dragon claws, and the fold texture is clear.
Laozi said: "the world is the most flexible, and the world is the most rigid. No world is weaker than water. And if you are strong, you can't win. " It's about the softness of water. We've all heard of "water drips through stone", but we don't know another great power when water turns into ice.
The "big mouth" at the entrance of Dongga glacier, for example, is the scar of the earth caused by the heavy pressure of ice accumulating for many years. But Yalong glacier let me really feel the whole process of "cutting".
The reason why glaciers are called glaciers is that they are not only ice, but also flowing ice. They have a certain shape, level and plasticity. Under the gravity and pressure, the plastic flow and massive sliding produced constantly impact the nearby mountains. When several glaciers rush into the valley together, they squeeze out the S-shaped curve Moraine in the middle of Yalong glacier.
The ice lake at the end of the glacier is dotted with countless pieces of ice floes. In front of the broken ice tongue, there is an ice wall several meters high. The wrinkles between the ice floes and the ice wall show a faint blue light, and there is a mysterious atmosphere of the polar region around
Before this trip, I never imagined that the ancient glacier would be so magnificent. As the source of the famous Ranwu lake, it seems so unknown. The Tibetan meaning of laigu village is a hidden, idyllic village, which is hidden in the rolling mountains around, as if it is intentionally hidden by nature
Laigu village is a wonderful world, surrounded by beautiful lakes and magnificent snow peaks. Standing here, you can see several marine glaciers. Such a natural landscape is unique in China and even in the world.
The local Tibetans who have little contact with the outside world still maintain the most original life style of semi farming and semi grazing. As a natural water supply station, glaciers are of great significance to them. However, our so-called beauty, ugliness and dirty are meaningless in nature
When I left the ancient village, my brother told us that it would soon usher in the deep winter. When it snowed, the village was basically isolated from the outside world. If I want to come again, I can only wait until the next spring